What Makes a Brogue a Brogue Shoe?

Leather Shoes

Several Goodyear welted styles of traditional English brogues are currently available online and in-store at the Barker London flagship stores and select Barker stockists from around the world. The majority of the Country collection is crafted from high-quality calf and grain leathers with storm-welted constructions on full leather or Dainite rubber soles. The Charles and Westfield Oxford brogues are crafted from premium calf leather and a full leather sole on a Barker 29 last. Calvary (F fitting) and Kelmarsh (G fitting) Derby brogues are constructed from grain leather with Dainite rubber soles for a durable Country brogue. All of the brogues in the Country collection can be dressed up or down with suiting or denim/chino trousers.

Modern brogues

Today, a brogue refers to any low-heeled shoe or boot with decorative perforations, or “broguing.” Frequently, they will also have serrations along any visible edges of the multiple pieces of material (usually sturdy leather) used to construct them. When there is broguing, you have a brogue, regardless of whether you prefer our comfortable and colourful Tommy Derby shoe or our vintage-inspired Shelby Oxford shoe, or whether you have an extravagant wingtip or a smart toe-cap. In addition to leather, canvas brogues are also available.

Types of Brogues

Leather shoes

Derby brogue: Derby brogues are open-laced dress shoes with eyelets sewn on the vamp, making them less formal than brogues with a closed lacing system. Derby brogues are versatile shoes that look great with chinos, jeans, and suits.

Full brogue: Full brogues, also known as wingtip brogues, have a W-shaped, pointed toe cap with wings that run along the shoe’s side and end before the football. These shoes have perforations and serrations along the top cap’s edges and perforations in the middle. A full brogue shoes with two-tone colours is referred to as a “spectator shoe,” whereas a full brogue without perforations on the toe cap is referred to as a “austerity brogue.”

Longwing brogue: Longwings, also known as English brogues, are distinguished by wings that extend laterally to the end of the shoe on both sides, meet at the centre seam, and have open lacing. The popularity of this sportier brogue style has declined since the 1970s, but it is still available.

Monk brogue: Monk brogues lack a lacing system. Instead, the shoe is secured to the wearer’s feet with buckles or straps (also known as monk straps).

Oxford brogue: Brogue Oxfords feature a closed lacing system concealed within the shoe’s upper part and a few broguing accents on the caps.Quarter brogue: Quarter brogues have a straight toe cap and perforations along the shoe’s edges. Quarter brogues pair well with formal attire for black tie events or other formal occasions.

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